Ramps — Springtime Treasures

After a couple of challenging weeks, I am finally back to my blog!

I have been meaning to write on this topic for weeks... Ramps! I grew up in West Virginia where ramps are readily available, but I was totally disinterested in them until much later in my life. I always associated them with being eaten raw and their pungent smell. I had not idea what a culinary delight they could be when prepared properly.

It really wasn't until years later when I was living in Charleston, WV and a friend shared a "mess" of ramps one spring that I came to adore these springtime treasures. They are only available in certain areas and for a limited time each year (generally March – early June). I remember vividly preparing that first batch of ramps! We put them in a foil packet with new potatoes and seasoned them simply with salt pepper and olive oil. We grilled them and ate them right away. The only problem was that it left us wanting more. The flavor is somewhere between a good onion and roasted garlic. The tops are like tender greens, and the ramp is cleaned and left whole to roast with the potatoes. Such a simple pleasure!

I moved to the New York City area soon after that, but was pleased to find that ramps were being discovered by chefs in the city and had become readily available in season at the green markets. Years later after relocating to the west coast, it is much harder to find ramps in the spring. To my knowledge, they are not found locally, but occasionally a specialty market will ship them in from a company called Earthly Delights. I ran across some at my local Whole Foods Market this spring and was able to enjoy them grilled with potatoes, just like home. We savored every bite.

Blackberry Philly Pastry

Check out my latest video! It is my last entry in the Real Women of Philadelphia contest. Technically not the best video we have produced, but the recipe is delish! Look for me to get back to writing this week. More videos will also come soon — new videos on our own terms here at Stephanie's Cucina! I can't wait to share more of my world of food and entertaining with you!

Spicy Philly Tomato Bisque

Check out my new video!

Video Blog! Cheesy Orzo Pasta with Sausage & Veggies

This is another entry for The Real Women of Philadelphia. I have an appetizer video in editing stages now that will be posted within the week. Hope you enjoy!

Stephanie's Cucina Live!

Wow! I never realized just how exhausting filming cooking segments could be until now! I am entering a contest sponsored by PaulaDeen.com and Philadelphia Cream Cheese called the Real Women of Philadelphia. Check out my first entry — and my very first attempt at filming a cooking video! For more info about the contest go to: www.realwomenofphiladelphia.com

Cooking With Whole Chickens

I love cooking with whole chickens! I started out mastering the art of roasting them, moved into brining and roasting and now I enjoy cutting them up to fry, roast or braise the parts. The best part about cutting up your own chicken is using the carcass to make home made stock. I alway listened to Ina Garten talk about how much better home made stock was and how easy it is to make, and now I know what she was talking about.

Today I am going to share a few of my favorite whole chicken recipes.

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Brined, Herb-Roasted Chickens
I roast these two at a time and enjoy the meat for days or freeze for later.

Brine:
1/2 gallon water1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup sea salt or kosher salt
1/4 cup peppercorns
1 head garlic
1 large bunch thyme branches
1 large bunch rosemary4 packets chicken or veggie bouillon (or replace water with broth)

1 whole chicken
2 tablespoons butter, room temperature1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
4 cloves garlic (2 whole, 2 minced)1/2 fresh lemon
1 small onion, quartered
flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

Combine first 8 ingredients and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and allow to cool completely.
Remove giblets from chicken, rinse well and pat dry with paper towels. Submerge chicken in the brine. Place a plate on top of the chicken to keep it submerged if necessary. Refrigerate for 12 hours.
Remove chicken from brine, rinse lightly and pat completely dry with paper towels.

Preheat oven to 425º. Zest about half of a lemon, cut the lemon in half and reserve the zested half for use in the chicken and the other half for another use). Combine butter, olive oil, herbs, lemon zest and chopped garlic to form a paste. Place the chicken in a roasting pan. Loosen the skin on the chicken breasts and spread the mixture evenly under the skin on each side, being careful not to tear the skin. Cut a slit in the skin between the leg and the breast on each side and place a garlic clove in each hole. Place the zested half of the lemon and the onion in the cavity. Pull the legs together and tightly wrap the ankles with kitchen twine. Sprinkle the skin all over generously with flaky sea salt. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375º and continue to roast for an additional 30-45 minutes. If the skin begins to burn, place a loose fitting piece of aluminum foil over the chicken (do not cover tightly) and remove in the last 5 minutes of roasting. Allow the chicken to rest for 10-15 minutes before carving.

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Easy Weeknight Chicken Bake

This is an excellent weeknight meal. Pair it with a big green salad and some good, crusty bread and you're all set!

1 whole chicken, cut into pieces* (reserve the wings and carcass for making homemade stock)
1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, quartered
1 large sweet onion, cut into eighths
1 head of garlic, separated, but cloves unpeeled
10–12 crimini mushrooms, quartered
3 Roma tomatoes, cut into eighths
1 lemon, quartered
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons dry mustard1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
flaky sea salt
Preheat oven to 450º. Place the chicken pieces in a large baking dish. Arrange potatoes, onion, garlic, mushrooms and tomatoes around the chicken. Whisk together olive oil, balsamic, mustard, thyme and 1/2 teaspoon salt and drizzle over everything. Toss to combine, making sure that chicken is skin side up when you finish and the potatoes are not under the chicken pieces. Sprinkle all lightly with flaky sea salt. Roast for about 50-60 minutes, until chicken is browned and cooked through.
* Note: I like to de-bone the breast pieces leaving the skin on. It makes for easier serving and cooks up nice and juicy.


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Homemade Chicken Stock
Place the chicken carcass, neck and wings in a large stock pot. Add:

1 onion, quartered
1 head garlic, cloves separated and smashed
2–3 carrots, cut into 2–3 pieces each
2–3 celery stalks, cut into 2–3 pieces each
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 Bay leaves

Cover all with water so that the chicken is submerged by at least an inch. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Skim off fat and scum that has risen to the top. Salt the stock lightly. Cover loosely and simmer for hours. Once the stock has simmered and reduced to your liking, pour it through a fine sieve to remove all the pieces and discard them. Allow stock to cool on the counter and skim the fat that rises to the top. Refrigerate for a few days or freeze for a few months.

Spicy Roasted Tomato-Basil Soup

I love tomato soup! Over the years I've come across some amazing versions — from the delicate, creamy Tomato Bisque at the Blossom Dairy in Charleston, WV to the bold, olive oil fortified Roasted Tomato-Basil Soup at Uva 69 in Miami, FL. Oddly enough, I never made my own version until a couple weeks ago, but it was worth the wait. I used freshly roasted tomatoes, homemade chicken stock, fresh basil, red pepper, onions and garlic to create a rich and slightly spicy soup. I served it with olive oil-Parmesan croutons made from a loaf of sourdough I had on hand. Next time, I want to try it with mini grilled cheese sandwiches — fresh mozzarella grilled between half-inch baguette slices.

Spicy Roasted Tomato-Basil Soup

3–4 pounds of fresh tomatoes (I used a combination of Roma and Campari)
1/3 cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoon
1 tablespoon sea salt
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 large sweet onion, chopped
2 tablespoons butter
8 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 can, 28-oz., whole peeled tomatoes
1 quart chicken stock
2 large handfuls of fresh basil plus extra chiffonade* for garnish
2 teaspoons sugar
fresh ground pepper to taste
sea salt to taste (if needed at all)
good olive oil for drizzling
crusty bread or Parmesan croutons

Preheat oven to 400º. Cut tomatoes in half, toss with 1/3 cup olive oil, sea salt and fresh thyme. Spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast in oven for 45 – 60 minutes.

While the tomatoes roast, combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and butter in a large dutch oven or stock pot. Melt together on medium heat and add onion and red pepper flakes. Sauté until onions begin to soften and add garlic. Continue cooking until the onions just begin to caramelize. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and allow to cook about 5 minutes longer. Add the canned tomatoes and chicken stock and allow to simmer until the roasted tomatoes are ready. Add the roasted tomatoes and all their juices and the fresh basil. Stir together and simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes. Purée the soup with a hand immersion blender** until smooth. Add 2 teaspoons sugar and salt & pepper as needed to taste. Serve topped with a sprinkling of fresh basil and fresh thyme leaves, a drizzle of good olive oil and Parmesan croutons or crusty bread.



* Cut into fine ribbons
** You could also carefully process through a food mill or in a regular blender if you do not have an immersion blender, but I have found the immersion blender to be an exceptional tool. You can pick up a basic model for $25-$30 and a really nice one for $50-$60.